There are a number of challenges a climber faces during a high-altitude
mountain expedition. Extreme weather conditions, sleep deprivation, and
the extraordinary energy demands placed on the body combine to push even
the fittest mountaineers to their physical limits. One environmental
factor stands out, however, as perhaps the greatest challenge to
high-altitude climbers: lack of oxygen.
No matter where on earth you are, the concentration of oxygen
in the air is about 21 percent. Depending on the altitude, however, the
density of air can vary widely. The density of a gas is the measure of
how many molecules there are in a given volume. The less dense the air,
the fewer molecules -- including oxygen molecules -- that air contains. On
Mount Everest, the highest point on earth, for example, the air is about
one-third less dense than the air at sea level, and thus contains about
one-third fewer oxygen molecules.
In addition, the lower air pressure at high altitudes makes
the transfer of oxygen from lung tissue into lung capillaries a less
efficient process. There is simply less pressure to push the air through
the capillary walls. To compound this problem, as a climber works harder
at extremely high altitudes, his or her heart beats faster. This causes
blood to pass more rapidly through the capillaries, giving the oxygen
less time to move from the lung tissue into the bloodstream.
The human body's capacity to compensate for moderate gains in
altitude is quite good. Most people have little difficulty going from
sea level to 8,000 feet above sea level. Climbing to this altitude may
cause a person's breathing rate to increase, and they may feel fatigued
as the body struggles to acquire the oxygen it needs, but few people
suffer more severe effects unless they continue to ascend.
Serious mountaineers, of course, climb much higher than 8,000 feet
-- 20,000 feet higher in the case of Mount Everest. In so doing they risk
suffering the effects of altitude sickness, which ranges from headache,
dizziness, and loss of appetite to more severe symptoms, including
vomiting and loss of consciousness. Nearly all climbers experience at
least mild symptoms of altitude sickness. Fatigue, headache, and lack
of appetite are all part of the experience for some. The more extreme
symptoms, however, can be life threatening, and most climbers go to
great lengths to avoid them.
The most common cause of altitude sickness is ascending too high,
too quickly. While the body responds immediately to a lack of oxygen by
quickening its breathing rate, there are limits to this response. Other
ways in which the body compensates -- by increasing blood pressure and
the flow of blood in the lungs, and by increasing the production of red
blood cells -- take several days to several weeks.
This is part of the reason mountaineers are unable to climb
from 10,000 feet to the 28,000-foot summit of Everest in a single day
or even several days. Not only do they need to rest along the way, but
their bodies also need time to adapt physiologically to the low-oxygen
conditions. This process, called acclimatization, involves climbing a
mountain in stages. Climbers will ascend several thousand feet and then
wait for their bodies to adapt to the lack of oxygen before continuing
higher. Most climbers do this several times en route to a high-altitude
summit.